Cantontown Express: Dim Sum and Roasted Meats in Columbia's Historic Chinese District

What Cantontown Express Serves and Where to Find It

Cantontown Express is a casual dim sum and roasted meat restaurant in Columbia's Cantontown neighborhood, the historic heart of the city's Chinese community. The restaurant specializes in Cantonese cuisine—the regional style from southern China that built Columbia's Chinese dining scene. You'll find it on Main Street in the same block where other longtime Chinese businesses anchor the neighborhood, making it easy to explore the area before or after your meal.

The menu centers on two things Cantonese cooking does best: dim sum (small plates of dumplings, buns, and other bites traditionally served with tea) and roasted meats like Peking duck, roasted pork, and roasted chicken. Unlike dim sum restaurants in larger cities where servers push carts table to table, Cantontown Express operates more like a standard restaurant—you order from a menu or counter. This setup works well if you want to sit down without the pressure of deciding quickly as carts roll past, or if you're visiting during off-peak hours when cart service isn't running.

Key Takeaways

• Cantontown Express specializes in dim sum and roasted meats, the two pillars of Cantonese cooking, served in a casual counter-service or table-order format.
• The restaurant sits on Main Street in Cantontown, Columbia's historic Chinese neighborhood, within walking distance of other cultural businesses and shops.
• Dim sum here includes dumplings, buns, and small plates; roasted meats are prepared fresh daily and can be ordered whole or by the pound.
• Hours and pricing vary seasonally, so calling ahead before a visit ensures the restaurant is open and confirms current menu prices.

Dim Sum: Dumplings, Buns, and Small Plates

Dim sum at Cantontown Express includes the classics: har gow (shrimp dumplings with a thin, translucent wrapper), siu mai (open-topped pork and shrimp dumplings), char siu bao (buns filled with roasted pork), and shumai (another style of open dumpling). You'll also find egg tarts, spring rolls, and sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaf. The exact selection changes based on what the kitchen prepared that day—this is authentic dim sum service, not a frozen-dumpling operation.

Most dim sum here comes in small portions (typically three to four pieces per order), which is the traditional way to eat it. This lets you try several different items without committing to a full entrée of any one thing. Prices are modest, usually a few dollars per order, making it easy to build a meal by sampling across the menu. If you're new to dim sum, staff can point you toward the most popular items or explain what's in anything unfamiliar.

Roasted Meats: Peking Duck, Pork, and Chicken

The roasted meat counter is where Cantontown Express shows its technical skill. Peking duck—the showpiece of Cantonese roasting—arrives with crispy, burnished skin and tender meat underneath. The kitchen also roasts pork belly (char siu pork) until the exterior caramelizes and the fat renders, and roasted chicken seasoned simply so the meat's flavor comes through. These are not quick-cooked items; they spend hours in the oven to develop the right texture and color.

You can order roasted meats by the pound or as a whole bird, depending on your party size and appetite. Many people order a combination plate with a bit of each—duck, pork, and chicken—served over rice or noodles. The meat is often accompanied by a simple sauce (soy-based or a light gravy) and pickled vegetables to cut the richness. This is the kind of meal that tastes like someone spent the morning preparing it, because someone did.

Cantontown's Role in Columbia's Chinese Community

Cantontown, centered on Main Street between Gervais and Blanding, is where Columbia's Chinese community established itself in the early 1900s. Chinese immigrants who came to work on railroads and in agriculture settled here, and over decades built shops, restaurants, and social organizations that still operate today. Walking the neighborhood, you'll see older storefronts with Chinese characters, family-run businesses that have been in the same location for generations, and a cultural continuity that's rare in American cities.

Cantontown Express fits into this history as a working restaurant for the neighborhood—not a tourist attraction, but a place where people come for authentic food at everyday prices. Eating here means supporting a business rooted in Columbia's actual Chinese heritage, not a version of Chinese food designed for outside audiences. The neighborhood itself is worth exploring before or after your meal; you'll find a herbalist shop, a traditional bakery, and other businesses that reflect the community's character.

Hours, Pricing, and What to Expect When You Visit

Cantontown Express operates with hours that can shift seasonally and by day of the week—lunch service is typically busier than dinner, and some days may close earlier than others. Calling ahead is the safest way to confirm the restaurant is open and to ask about any specials or items that might not be on the regular menu. The staff can also tell you whether dim sum service is running that day, since cart service (if offered) depends on kitchen staffing and customer volume.

Pricing is modest: dim sum orders run a few dollars each, and roasted meat plates or by-the-pound orders are similarly affordable. This is casual dining, not fine dining—expect simple tables, straightforward service, and a focus on the food rather than atmosphere. Cash is often preferred, though many restaurants in Cantontown now accept cards; asking when you call ensures you know what to bring. Parking is available on Main Street and in nearby lots, and the neighborhood is walkable if you want to explore before or after eating.

Dim Sum and Roasted Meat Traditions in Cantonese Cooking

Dim sum and roasted meats are not random menu items—they're the foundation of Cantonese food culture. Dim sum originated as tea-house food in Guangdong province, meant to be eaten in small quantities alongside tea. The practice of eating dim sum with tea (called yum cha) is a social ritual as much as a meal, and it shaped how Cantonese restaurants operate. Roasting, meanwhile, is a technique Cantonese cooks perfected over centuries; the goal is to render fat, crisp the skin, and keep the meat inside tender and juicy.

When you eat at Cantontown Express, you're eating food that reflects these traditions directly. The dumplings are made by hand or with techniques passed down through families. The roasted meats are prepared using methods that require skill and timing, not shortcuts. This is why the food tastes different from mass-produced dim sum or roasted meat from a chain—it's built on technique and care, not efficiency.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to know how to order dim sum, or can I just point at things?

You can do either. Many people order from a menu or point at items in the display case. If you're unsure what something is, ask—staff are used to explaining dishes and can recommend popular items or suggest combinations that work well together. There's no pressure to order quickly or in any particular way.

Can I get roasted meat without dim sum, or dim sum without roasted meat?

Yes. Roasted meats are often served as a main course over rice or noodles, and dim sum can be a full meal on its own if you order several different items. You can build your meal however you want—there's no requirement to order both.

Is Cantontown Express good for groups, or is it better for individuals?

It works well for both. Groups often order several dim sum items to share, which is the traditional way to eat it. Individuals can order a roasted meat plate or a few dim sum items and have a complete meal. The casual setup means you're not rushed either way.

What's the difference between dim sum here and dim sum at other Chinese restaurants?

Cantontown Express makes dim sum fresh in-house, which means the dumplings are tender and the fillings are seasoned properly. Some restaurants use frozen dim sum, which tastes noticeably different. The roasted meats here are also prepared daily, not reheated from a previous batch—that freshness shows in the texture and flavor.

Should I call ahead, or can I just walk in?

Calling ahead is a good idea, especially if you want to confirm hours or ask about specific items. Walk-ins are welcome during regular hours, but calling ensures the restaurant is open and lets you know if there's a wait during busy times.